Chemical Peels: What Actually Happens in the Peeling Process?

Chemical peels remain one of the most popular choices for improving skin tone, texture, and overall quality. This is because apart from revealing a smoother, brighter complexion underneath, they can also treat a range of skin concerns such as acne, scars, fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage. 

But what’s really happening during a chemical peel? How does the process work beneath the surface to renew your skin? Continue reading as we explore the science behind chemical peels, what to expect during the treatment, and how they can transform your skin.

But first, what is a chemical peel?

A chemical peel is a skin resurfacing treatment that uses certain types of acids to remove the outermost layer of the skin. It involves the application of a chemical solution to the skin, causing trauma or injury to the skin layers. This will then peel off, revealing brighter and younger-looking skin with fewer lines and wrinkles. 

Commonly used acids in chemical peels include:

• Glycolic acid – ideal for renewing skin surface; used in light to medium peels.
• Salicylic acid – targets oily skin, clogged pores, and acne-prone skin.
• Lactic acid – a milder alternative to glycolic acid, suitable for sensitive skin.
• Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) – a stronger acid that can improve wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and sun damage; used in medium-depth peels.
• Phenol – deep skin reconstruction for severe aging; used in deep peels and has the highest risk of complications.

A superficial peel using glycolic acid is considered the most common type of chemical peel. Glycolic acid peels offer mild exfoliation and are used to address various concerns such as acne, fine lines, mild sun damage, and uneven skin tone. They are also well-tolerated by most skin types, including dry and sensitive skin.  

There are three types of chemical peels:

• Superficial peels – use mild acids or peeling agents like alpha-hydroxy acids to resurface or remove only the skin’s top layer.
• Medium peels – use stronger acids like TCA to penetrate deeper and remove the outermost layer and a portion (upper part) of the middle layer.
• Deep peels – use very strong acids like phenols to target deeper layers. These remove skin cells even deeper and are performed under the guidance of a doctor.

Who is chemical peel good for?

Chemical peels are generally recommended for those looking to:

• Improve skin texture
• Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Brighten skin or address pigmentation issues
• Address acne and acne scars

Light or superficial chemical peels can be used on almost all skin types. If you, however, have a darker skin tone, you may have an increased risk of skin darkening (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) after treatments. A consultation with a skin expert can help determine the right peel depth and type for your skin. 

What happens during the peeling process?

So, how does a chemical peel work? As previously mentioned, the procedure causes a controlled wound or damage to the skin’s outer layers. This then triggers a healing response, prompting the body to initiate natural healing. 

1. Applying the chemical solution – an acid or chemical solution is applied to the skin using a brush, cotton ball/gauze, or sponges. The solution or acid used (light or deep chemical peel) is tailored to your skin type and goals.
2. Controlled damage – the solution breaks down the bonds between the skin cells in the outer layers. This triggers a wound healing response that leads to the shedding of damaged skin cells. The healing process also includes inflammation, cell turnover, and collagen production.
3. The peeling process – after a few days, the skin layers will eventually peel or flake off. The peeling process can last depending on the peel chosen. It ranges from three to seven days for light peels, one to two weeks for medium peels, and several weeks (even months) longer for deeper peels.
4. Skin regeneration – as the damaged layer peels away, you’ll notice a smoother, brighter, and younger-looking complexion. The new skin is also more even-toned with fewer lines and wrinkles.

Do take note that even though peeling is a side effect of chemical peel, it does not necessarily indicate the effectiveness of the peel. When evaluating its success, it is best to focus on the improvement in the skin’s overall tone and texture. 

Recovery and aftercare

When performing a glycolic or salicylic acid peel, for instance, it is normal to experience a mild to moderate burning or stinging sensation. Post-peel, your skin may also be red, swollen, or tender. Certain peels, like salicylic acid peels, may also trigger a purging phase, but this is a normal part of the healing process. 

Recovery and aftercare can depend on the depth of your chemical peel. General recommendations include:

• Cleanse gently – use mild, fragrance-free cleanser; pat dry, don’t scrub or rub the skin.
• Moisturize often – use a hydrating cream; you may be able to use petroleum jelly for deeper peels.
• Apply SPF 30+ daily – choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen and avoid sun exposure and tanning.
• Don’t pick or scrub – allow your skin to peel naturally. Picking, pulling, or rubbing the peeling skin can lead to scarring, infection, and prolonged healing.
• Avoid retinol, acids – refrain from using harsh products until your skin has healed. Avoid makeup for a few days, particularly those that contain harsh chemicals.
• Manage discomfort – use cold compresses or pain relievers for discomfort.
• Avoid heavy workouts and steam – these can increase blood flow to the face, which can intensify post-peel symptoms.
• Follow professional advice – stick to the aftercare plan from your provider for best results.
• Watch for signs of infection – seek medical help if you notice excessive redness, pus, or fever.

Results: What to expect and when

The results appear as the skin heals, with initial improvements after 1 to 2 weeks. More significant changes show up during the 2nd to 8th week as new collagen formation improves skin structure. And as cellular renewal and collagen remodeling continue (8+ weeks), you may notice further improvement in the skin’s overall appearance. 

Results can depend on the type of peel chosen. It is also important to keep in mind that aging is a continued process and with factors like sun damage, new lines and skin discoloration can appear over time. Repeated treatments can help maintain the results.

• Superficial peels – repeated peels can improve the tone and texture of the skin, as well as reduce fine lines
• Medium peels – smooth the skin and can improve scarring and signs of aging such as wrinkles and pigmentation.
• Deep peels – more dramatic improvements in the tone and texture of the skin, with a reduction in deep wrinkles and sun damage.

Sanctuary by Cutis chemical peels in Singapore

At Sanctuary by Cutis, we offer superficial and medium-depth peels to resurface your skin and unveil a younger-looking complexion. These involve a combination of acids and other ingredients that work together to transform your skin. Some of the chemical peels in Singapore we offer include:

• Anti-Acne Peel – Unclogs pores and kills acne-causing bacteria. Suitable for mild to moderate acne on the face, neck, and back.
• Crystal Peel – Brightens dull skin and evens out tone by targeting freckles, age spots, and discoloration.
• Modified Jessner Peel – A medium-depth peel that helps improve pigmentation, sun damage, acne scars, large pores, and fine lines.
• TCA CROSS – A spot treatment peel for deep acne scars (ice pick or box scars) that stimulates collagen remodeling.
• VI Peel – Available in various formulations to treat wrinkles, pigmentation, scars, and boost collagen.

If you’re considering chemical peels in Singapore, don’t hesitate to reach out to us. WhatsApp us at +65 9780 2079 to learn more or schedule an appointment.